Kané Restaurant in Bucharest has a wine list that features only Romanian producers. This is a marvellous reflection of the quality and diversity of the Romanian wine scene.
Sadly, they appear to be unique in their confidence in local producers.
Our survey of 27 fine-dining restaurants in Bucharest that published wine lists on their websites reveals that the average representation of Romanian wine on their lists is just 40%. Some had no Romanian wine at all.
It’s hard to imagine that fine-dining restaurants in Rome don’t feature predominantly Italian wines, and imagine going to a Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris and seeing mainly non-French wines. In our experience, even less well-known regions like Santorini, Crete, Madeira, Rheingau and Croatia are very proud of their local producers.
We all know the story of Cinderella and how her fairy godmother transformed her, enabling her to attend the royal ball, which was probably held at Sinaia Castle in Romania (see featured image), where she mesmerized everyone with her beauty and grace. Similarly, Romanian premium wine needs a transformation, a rebranding that will allow the world to fully appreciate its richness, diversity, and quality. With a fresh image and the right promotion, Romanian wine could dazzle on the global stage, just as Cinderella did at the ball.
So, what needs to change for the Romanian wine to get its rightful place at the table?
The wine industry, particularly the high quality one, is one driven by passion. Many stories tell of people making their fortunes elsewhere only to invest in a vineyard out of sheer love for wine. Most producers around the world barely break even but they but they persist because it’s not just a business—it’s a lifestyle. The Romanian wine industry is no exception. It doesn’t make money, or at least not more than what it needs to survive.
Countries that understand the cultural and economic value of their wine industries invest heavily in promoting them as national treasures. If Romanian wine is to make a serious mark on the international stage, the government must take the lead, allocating resources and funding to support the industry. Romania can learn from countries like Portugal, Greece, Georgia, Croatia, and Hungary, where governments have played a hands-on role in elevating their wine industries.
Moreover, wine is not just about the product itself - it’s tied to tourism and hospitality. Romanian wine often lags in visibility and presence. At international wine fairs, Romanian booths are often tucked away in the back, while those of other countries are front and centre, dazzling with enticing displays.
Romanian stand at the back of the hall at the London Wine Fair 2023. Image: Mirela Mart
Another challenge is the lack of coordinated efforts to promote Romanian exports. APEV (Wine Exporters’ and Producers’ Association of Romania) has social media profiles (Facebook and LinkedIn) but lacks a functioning website as of this writing. How can Romania effectively promote its wine in the digital age without a strong online presence? Fortunately, private initiatives like the Wines of Romania website provide a wealth of information about Romanian producers and wines, but more needs to be done.
Returning to the Cinderella analogy, Romanian wine is in desperate need of a re-brand, one that highlights its sustainability, craftsmanship, tradition, and passion. This transformation must be supported by government funding to succeed.
So, Romanian government, what will you do? It’s time to stop sending officials on paid trips to tourism fairs with lackluster stands and not fit for purpose promotional materials. Instead, let’s help Romanian winemakers showcase and sell the fruits of their labour and passion.
Romanian wine may not immediately come to mind when people think of premium wines. The industry is still grappling with the lingering perception of cheap, low-quality wine from the communist era. But it’s time to leave that image behind.
Over the past two decades, Romanian wine producers invested massively in the industry. They began with investments in the winemaking process and facilities. Then, they continued with investments in vineyards. They pulled the vines from the communist era (high yielding, mass production clones) and replaced them with high quality, international grape varieties. In addition, they also invested in research and quality selection of the notable local grape varieties. If this evolution looks a bit backwards, this is because of the availability of the European funds. First SAPARD and then EU funds.
“From an investment perspective, the Romanian market is saturated. Everybody replaced their vines and there is no longer the case of replacement in mass. Yes, there are still replacements of 5-10ha, but we are no longer talking about 100ha” (Aurelia Vișinescu interview June 2023).
Romanian producers have top quality vines, equipment, hire reputable wine consultants and invest heavily in training and research.
To truly be a premium producer, Aurelia Vișinescu emphasizes consistency. Premium winemaking is not about having one or two outstanding vintages it’s about delivering quality year after year. Romanian premium wines, which represent around 5% of the country’s total production, now exhibit this kind of consistency.
This means that Romanian premium wine is no longer a conundrum or an occasional occurrence, but a regular and deliberate act.
Royalty, aristocracy and even wine nobility, such as Antinori, have invested in Romanian wine. Here is a non-exhaustive list of some premium Romanian wines and producers:
Selling premium wine is one of the most challenging aspects of the business. It requires hand selling. It requires personalized marketing and tasting events, as few consumers will pay £30-40 for a bottle without knowing what they’re getting. Romanian producers must actively promote their best wines, particularly through tastings, where word-of-mouth can spread the excitement.
Although premium Romanian wines are not cheap, they remain affordable compared to their French or Italian counterparts. So why not seek them out and give them a try?
Romanians are passionate, hospitable people, with joie de vivre and a strong sense of humour. Good food and wine and the occasional dancing are deeply embedded in the culture. Their guests always leave with full tummies and a little bit too much wine on board.
Everybody appreciates a bit of local produce, either brought from relatives that live in the countryside or purchased from farmer markets. Romanian cheese and charcuterie make a perfect pairing for wine tasting.
Unfortunately, the Romanian wine tourism is still in its infancy. Tasting rooms require demand to be financially sustainable, and many producers cannot afford to keep full-time staff for sporadic visits. Again, government support is needed to promote wine tourism alongside broader Romanian tourism.
When visiting countries like Croatia or Greece, you’ll notice that local wines dominate restaurant menus. There’s a strong sense of national pride in showcasing premium local wines.
In contrast, top restaurants in Bucharest often feature a mix of Romanian wines and international ones. Roughly, Romanian wines represent less than half of the wine list, with French, Italian and occasionally New World or Moldavian wines as the remaining half. While this is an improvement from a decade ago, when foreign wines dominated, there’s still room for growth.
Especially in cities like Bucharest, where business tourism is prevalent, promoting Romanian premium wines should be a point of national pride. Local wines pair naturally with local cuisine, making them a perfect addition to any dining experience. You can promote the Romanian premium wine along side the local products you use to make your fabulous food.
For Romanians living abroad, it’s easy to lose touch with your roots and embrace the trends of your new country. However, promoting Romanian wine is an excellent way to stay connected to your heritage. Here’s what you can do:
By celebrating and promoting Romanian wine, both at home and abroad, we can help elevate it to the global stage where it belongs.
Romanian cellar treasures and reminders of home - pickles and food to last a lifetime from Poiana Brasov
Romanian wine is at a crossroads, standing on the brink of global recognition. With the right government support, investment, and promotion, it has the potential to shine on the international stage. The progress made by passionate producers over the past two decades is undeniable, but more needs to be done. A cohesive national effort, one that includes branding, tourism, and a strong digital presence could transform Romania’s wine industry into a symbol of national pride.
Romanian premium wine is no longer just a hidden gem; it’s a product of quality and consistency, deserving of a place among the world’s best. With growing interest in wine tourism and the support of the diaspora, Romanian wine can become a global ambassador for the country’s rich traditions and craftsmanship. The path is clear, and the glass is half full - now it’s time to fill it to the brim and share it with the world.
So, whether you're a wine enthusiast, a producer, or simply a proud Romanian, it's time to raise your glass and support this blossoming industry. The world is ready to be dazzled, Romanian wine just needs its moment to shine.